Embroidery has become the tried and true option for decoration. According to Fibre to Fashion, embroidery can be dated back to Cro-Magnon days or 30,000 BC where boots and hats were found with heavily hand stitched designs. Thousands of years later it is still considered a staple to add a logo on apparel. With the advent of new technology in fabrics it only makes sense that the fashion of decoration evolves.

Many decorators have started to add new techniques to address the changing needs of fabrics. This is especially important for moisture wicking fabrics that are becoming lighter and more efficient in cooling the body. The technology used in many of these products can make them difficult to embroider due to snagging or puckering or even the weight of the material causing the logo and backing to snag.

There is nothing worse than a poorly decorated apparel item. It sticks out and it reflects on the brand being worn. From gifts to clients to uniforms for employees the decoration should reflect the meaning of the logo just as much as the color or shape. If your brand is supposed to represent cutting edge, embroidery is not your friend. If you are trying to invoke luxury, just walk away from the needle and thread. Instead look at some new alternatives or even cooler, add some mixed media.

Techniques to try

Transfer

What is it? A transfer takes a separate type of paper or material and prints a design on it. Then the design is applied to the fabric using a combination of heat and pressure.

What are the options? This can come in many different forms depending on what you are decorating and what you are going to use it for. Some can be very light weight and show vibrant colors. Some are heavier duty like material used for sport numbers. Talk to your supplier or distributor to find the best option. There are also styles that create a texture such as flocking. The best materials for this technique is anything with a solid surface as long as you use the right temperature and material you will not be disappointed with this technique.

Screen Print

What is it? Screen print uses a method of adding decoration to fabric by adding ink to a garment and then heating it. The ink is pressed onto the fabric using a squeegee over a screen that has the design cut out. This is very common with T-shirts but can also work on some other materials depending on the texture.

What are the options? Screen print does come with limitations. Fine details can be hard to capture due to the limitations of the material. It can be very difficult to go over seams or in small places because of the way the item has to be stretched to be printed. However, there is so much more than one color in one location available. From gel inks, glow in the dark, distressed, glitter and puff ink just to name a few.

Laser Engrave

What is it? Probably one of the most interesting techniques to watch. It literally takes a laser which will cut a layer of the material off. This can present a kind of tonal look which is very high end.

What are the options? This technology is limited to certain materials. It works great on fleeces or heavy materials. It doesn’t work as well with any material with a fabric content of more than 20% natural fibers and some thin material may be too thin to keep the integrity of the material post cut.

Emboss or Deboss

What is it? This technique originated with leather materials and is very common with journals and padfolios. However, with some material a 3D mold can be created and with heat and pressure it can create a dimensional decoration. Similar to laser engrave this creates a tonal look since no color is being added. however, it tends to be much closer in color than engraving and you can actually feel the logo in the material.

What are the options? Again, this is limited by material and the construction of the garment. Good materials to use with this technique is polyester, leather and pleather.

From the Experts

Friend of Trend on Brand and Midwest Field Sales Manager for Trimark/PCNA, Rachel Hare, offered some great insight into what their experience has been with some of the new techniques.

What is the most used technique that you see currently?

Hare: Embroidery is the most used technique, with True-Edge Transfer a close second. People tend to order what they are comfortable with, so embroidery still leads the pack, however, our True-Edge Transfer allows for a crisp, clean look with PMS color matching, and solves many problems that are rampant with embroidery, especially on lightweight, dry-wicking, or technical fabrics (fine lines and text are printed clearly, exact PMS color match can be achieved, no curling or puckering of the logo, no itchy backing, doesn’t compromise the integrity of waterproof fabrics). This is why we are seeing a strong surge in transfer popularity.

What do you think is the most underused technique?

Hare: Probably transfer because of all the reasons mentioned above, although my personal favorite is deboss. It gives you a next-generation, almost futuristic appeal, while managing to be both subtle AND noticeable.

Do you find that techniques vary by vertical? by Product?

Hare: We definitely see a variance in branding techniques by product. Anything dry-wicking or waterproof should trigger a client to consider transfer, deboss or laser to avoid puckering or compromising the integrity of the water-proofing. I would also agree that vertical market does impact the technique most likely to be chosen. I find more traditional verticals, like finance, tend to stick with embroidery. Technology and other trendy markets tend to be more adventurous in their choices to reflect their innovation and to attract like-minded clients or employees.

What do you think will be the next hot technique available?

Hare: I think HXD is just starting to grow in popularity. As it becomes more prevalent in the sports arena and in retail, we will start to see a deeper comfort level in this versatile and unique decoration technique. {HDX Is an exclusive of PCNA}

For more information on how to create a garment that really speaks to your brand reach out to your distributor for more information or check out pcna.com/trimark or sanmar.com

Beyond Embroidery: New Advancements in Decoration